Only exceptional whiskies are selected by the Director to be bottled for this exclusive series from The Single Malts of Scotland. Each bottling is aged to perfection, celebrating both the classic characteristics of the distillery and the subtle changes created by time and oak.

Tasting notes:

Nose: A stack of fruit tumbles out the glass. A breakfast buffet of Danish pastries and fresh fruit salad: mango, green bananas, crème patissiere, caramelised pastry and slices of candied lemon. Sweet floral notes float above and sharper citrus notes of grapefruit zest and lemon rind swim beneath. Spiced butter develops with time in the glass.

Palate: A flash of elegant oak leads into a world of warming spice. Stewed apples and pears dusted with nutmeg and hot cinnamon fade to reveal a damp forest of rich rancio. The spice heat calms and spiced cake batter appears, stirred through with raisins.

Finish: Sponge-cake vanilla becomes stewed apple that slowly sharpens as it is joined by softly spiced butter.

Tasting notes by Angus MacRaild (Whiskyfun.com): 89 points

A new addition to this rather lavish, recent range from Elixir Distillers.

Colour: gold.

Nose: you certainly get the familial resemblances more between this one and the 27yo than you do between the 27 and the G&M 11yo. This is more concentrated fruit syrups, children’s medicines, lime leaf, heather honey and more specific fruit notes such as cider apples, pear liqueur and things like aged mead and furniture wax. A beautifully luscious, layered, fruity and honeyed nose. No sense of fatigue so far, but, as is often the case with older whiskies, let’s check the palate...

Mouth: there is wood no doubt, but I’m pleased to say it is clean. It has bite but it’s like sandalwood, polished furniture, precious hardwoods, tree bark, winter spices and this mushroomy, earthy character again. There’s also more of these syrupy qualities that manifest as things like quince paste, lemon jelly, lime curd, green fruit syrups, rosewater and eventually lamp oil and camphor. More up front waxiness as well, along with a gentle salinity. There’s still a sense of coastal freshness about it, even though it wears its age front and centre.

Finish: Good length, surprisingly warming, slightly mentholated, notes of graphite, lemon oil and various mineral twitches. Something akin to old Bourbon in the aftertaste.

Comments: It’s another excellent Bunna, only a slight inkling of tiredness on the palate will prevent me going to 90. But it’s supremely quaffable old juice that still retains a clear thumbprint of identity.