Nose: this is more delicate than the 1983, which suggests an earlier vintage(s). The smoke is sort of shier but also more elegant, the whole being more complex for sure. At random we get notes of fresh bitter almonds (quite a lot), white wine (Sauvignon), wet leaves and mushrooms (a walk through the trees, really), cloves and ginger, smoked tea (lapsang souchong)… Gets then a little fruitier (ripe apples and pears), grassier and even a tad mustardy. With water: gets a bit farmier (wet hay) and maritime as well (drying kelp on the beach), with also hints of fresh mint.
Mouth (neat): starts unexpectedly fruity (granny smith) but it’s soon to get rather smokier, with big notes of fresh walnuts and crystallised lemon zests together with hints of liquorice, horseradish and green pepper. Gets then grassier and “pleasantly acrid”, if you see what I mean. With water: it’s here that it gets closer to the 30yo’s, with the kind of ‘majestic austerity’ that we like so much in most Broras. It is to be wondered if they didn’t sort of ‘dope’ this one with one or two casks of older spirit. Just a wild guess!
Finish: long, grassy, smokier now, with these very idiosyncratic notes of mustard and salt in the aftertaste.
Comments: we had feared that the new 25 would not hold a candle to the 30; we were wrong. But please give it time and, most importantly, don’t forget to add a few drops of water to it to unleash its full ‘Broraness’.