Tasting notes by Serge Valentin (Whiskyfun.com): 91 points

Colour: straw.

Nose: explosively austere, if I may say so. Soaked grains and wood alcohol, flints, wet rocks, damp clay, fermenting grass and lamp oil… The wild side of the Lowlands indeed. Nicer than it sounds, that is. Nice whiffs of patchouli, dried flowers, leather polish… With water: amazing how it unfolds, on fantastic herbal notes as well as all things mineral. Clay, lime stones, coal, chalk… It does remind me a bit of the Malt Maniacs’ beloved 19yo 1979 Rare Malts. Notes of green apples and gooseberries in the background as well as shoe polish and motor oil.

Mouth (neat): punchy, sweet/malty at the attack, then extremely green and grassy, biting, austere and ‘unsexy’ if I may say so. Oily mouth feel. Not an easy dram for sure but this kind of very ‘old style’ is most interesting. I can’t think of any ‘current’ malt that’s close to this, maybe Springbank (partly so) With water: oh yes, this is great. Complex, spicy, herbal, peppery, almondy, leafy, even kind of phenolic and resinous (lots of propolis). A great dram.

Finish: long, on the same notes.

Comments: usually punters would say that the Islayers are the most uncompromising drams, but this beats them all in my opinion. Excellent selection by WM Cadenhead’s but beware, water is needed even if it’ not particularly strong.